The 1A to 4C hair texture system is shorthand. It does not capture everything (porosity, density, condition all matter), but it captures the single property that determines most of the routine: how curled or coiled the strand is. From that one fact, almost everything else follows. How easily natural sebum travels from scalp to ends, how the hair behaves when wet, what kind of product weight it tolerates, how it responds to humidity.

Here is the version that fits on a page, with the routine principle for each.

Type 1: straight

The strand has no curl pattern. Sebum from the scalp travels down the length easily, which is why type 1 hair tends to feel oily at the roots before it feels dry at the ends.

1A. Very straight, fine, slips easily. Holds curl with difficulty. Often appears flat at the roots.

1B. Straight with a slight bend. Some body, slightly thicker strand than 1A.

1C. Straight, coarser, may bend toward a soft S.

Routine principle: wash often enough to keep the scalp comfortable; keep conditioner off the roots; lightweight everything. Volume comes from technique (root lift while drying) more than product. See "Fine hair, lightweight routines" for the most common variant.

Type 2: wavy

A natural S shape. Wavy hair sits between straight and curly and often gets miscategorised in both directions. Most under-curled in dry conditions; most defined when slightly damp.

2A. Loose, fine wave. Easily flattens; needs lightweight definition.

2B. Defined S waves through the lengths; can frizz at the crown.

2C. Tighter waves, sometimes with a few loose curls; coarser strands; more prone to humidity changes.

Routine principle: the goal is encouraging the wave without weighing it down. Sulfate-free shampoo a few times a week. Lightweight conditioner mid-lengths to ends. Apply styling on soaking wet hair; air-dry or diffuse on low heat. Heavier creams flatten the pattern; lighter mousses and gels define it.

Type 3: curly

A defined curl, anywhere from a loose spring to a tight corkscrew. Sebum has trouble travelling the length of a curl, which is why type 3 hair runs drier than type 1 or 2.

3A. Loose, large curls. Defined. Sometimes loses pattern at the crown.

3B. Medium, springy curls. More tightly wound; richer products are tolerated.

3C. Tight corkscrew curls, often dense. Approaches type 4 territory.

Routine principle: hydration is the throughline. Sulfate-free, gentle shampoo. Rich, slippery conditioner. A weekly mask is helpful. Apply leave-in and styling on saturated wet hair; do not touch as it dries. Heat styling sparingly. Pillowcases of satin or silk reduce friction overnight.

Type 4: coily

The tightest pattern, ranging from a Z-shaped coil to a less-defined kink. The most cuticle exposure per inch of hair, the highest natural porosity, the highest moisture need.

4A. Springy, defined coils smaller than 3C.

4B. Z-shaped coil pattern. Less defined; high shrinkage when dry.

4C. Tightest coil, sometimes barely visible pattern; densest shrinkage; highest moisture demand.

Routine principle: moisture, sealing, and protective styling. Pre-poo with oil before washing. Co-wash (conditioner-only washing) is often more useful than shampooing. Layer humectant, then cream, then oil. Protective styles (braids, twists, low buns) reduce daily handling. Satin or silk for everything that touches the hair overnight.

What the system does not capture

Pattern is not the only variable. Two people with the same 3B pattern can have very different routines because of:

  • Porosity (how easily water moves in and out of the strand; see the porosity article).
  • Density (how many strands sit on the scalp).
  • Strand diameter (fine, medium, coarse).
  • Condition (heat damage, chemical processing, age of the lengths).

Pattern points to the routine principle. The other variables decide the product weights, washing frequency, and treatment cadence within that principle.

The hair texture system is a starting frame. The real routine emerges when pattern, porosity, density, and condition all sit on the same page.

Key takeaways

  • Type 1 hair needs less, washed often. Type 4 hair needs more, handled less.
  • Type 2 wavy hair wants encouragement; styling on wet, lightweight products.
  • Type 3 curly hair wants hydration; rich conditioner and minimal touching while drying.
  • Type 4 coily hair wants moisture sealed in; pre-poo, co-wash, layered humectant-cream-oil.
  • Pattern is the starting frame; porosity, density, and condition fine-tune the routine.

Common questions

Can my hair change types?

The pattern you inherit is what you have. Visible changes (looser curls during pregnancy, tighter after) do occur for some people, but the underlying type usually returns. Heat damage and chemical processing can permanently relax curl patterns; that change is the hair itself, not the type.

How do I find my type without overthinking it?

Wash, condition normally, air-dry without product, and look at the resulting pattern. That is your hair speaking for itself. Anything else (gel, brushing, heat) is a routine overlay.

Are these categories official?

The 1A to 4C system was popularised by stylist Andre Walker. It is widely used in the industry but is not a clinical classification. Use it as a useful frame, not as a diagnosis.

Should I have different products for different parts of my head?

Sometimes useful. Many curly heads have looser patterns at the crown and tighter at the nape, or different porosity along the lengths than at the roots. Splitting products is reasonable; some routines simply use a heavier styler on the drier zones.

Cura is informational and not a substitute for medical advice. Sudden changes in texture or hair density, or significant shedding, warrant a visit to a dermatologist or trichologist.